Alexander Pavlova

I don't expect any of you to follow this blog to such a loyal extent, but you may have noticed my mild absence recently. This, in fact, is a good thing; over the last week, instead of cooking up fresh ideas, I've been going over my good, everyday recipes such as my beetroot lasagne, fried chicken, and discovered numerous improvements which I've updated the recipe with. Indeed this is unreliable as you may never if you're cooking the best version of the recipe (although I'm not proposing anyone has actually used this blog to cook from) but I feel calmer in this relaxed, slightly repetitive paradigm of meals that I've already cooked.

Pavlova on the other hand is something that I've always thought I'm okay at making. 3 egg whites, 175g caster sugar, a bit of cornflour and vinegar, cook for a long time at a low temperature. Bob's your uncle. However, that was until I discovered the epitome of Australian food writing- Stephanie Alexander, who obviously knows a thing or two about pavlova. She recommended many extra steps (the divine revelation that you should flip the pavlova over before cream is piled on), and along with my own tips (half brown sugar and less weight of sugar, for example) I created a fabulous, and I won't say perfect because what a vile description that is, pavlova. I've also named this Alexander because the bulkiness and tan colour of the cooked meringue reminds me very much of a boy in my triple science class who shares the prestigious title of 'Alex'. I do hope he comes across this post one day...

To make meringues at a pinch, 'pinch' being a total lie because meringue can't be made quickly, whenever a recipe requires just egg yolk, freeze the white in a bag, and thaw it and allow to come to room temperature before making this.

1)Add a pinch of salt to 4 egg whites and whisk on high until soft peaks form, meaning when the whisk is lifted out a peak remains but it flops on itself. You can use salt and lemon juice or cream of tartar which you can get in little sachets free in magazines, how satisfying is that? When the egg whites are that stiff, add 100g light brown sugar and 120g caster mixed together, about a quarter at a time, low speed at first, and then when all the sugar is mixed in, whip to high until the meringue holds in stiff peaks. If you're brave, hold the meringue over your head, it shouldn't budge.

2)Slurry (what a fantastic word, right?) 2 tsp cornflour and 1 tsp red or white wine vinegar together, and because I'm topping the pavlova with forest fruits, a small pinch of cinnamon and vanilla extract. Fold it into the meringue well. I won't always add cinnamon, but a slightly darker meringue, the lightest brown (I don't mean the colour of smutty lingerie) and the caramel flavour courtesy of brown sugar is exquisite.

3)Use the folding spoon to dab tiny bits of meringue on the corner of the baking sheet, a tip I learned from Lorraine Pascale when she was making macarons, I believe. This will ensure the baking parchment doesn't shuffle. Dollop the meringue on top, and level it to a very smooth, flat circle. You can draw a circle on the parchment so the pavlova is perfectly round, but who in their right mind wants to spend their time doing that? 

4)Place the meringue into a hot 180 degree oven, then shut the door and turn the heat down immediately to 150. Leave for 30 minutes, then turn down to 120 and cook for 45 minutes. If your oven doesn't adjust temperature very quickly or accurately, you may have better luck putting the pav in at 120 for two hours.

5)Leave the meringue to cool completely in the oven before opening it. You can do this overnight.

6)For the fruit, Stephanie often uses passion fruit which are much more plentiful in blue Australia, but not grey Britain. In New Zealand, kiwis are often used, the flavour I love but the colour doesn't go with anything. I use berries and a dash of creme de cassis. Coat 500g frozen berries in 3 tbsp caster sugar, then heat them on high for about 5 minutes, until when you draw a finger down the back of the wooden spoon drenched in the juice, the line remains. Leave to cool completely before adding 200g fresh raspberries and a generous few tbsp cassis. 

7)Don't dress the dessert long before you serve it- whip 500ml double cream to very soft peaks, and set aside whilst you invert the pav. Flip it over onto the serving plate or cake stand and peel off the paper. This works because the chewy marshmallow interior clashes with the smooth cream, and the bottom and sides remain crisp. Swathe the pav with the cream, and then the berry compote, trying to get a bit of central height. Serve to a crowd unafraid of fattening food. Like my dear friend who's namesake is this dessert.