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Tuesday, 15 March 2016

Muttar Paneer with Middle-Eastern Chickpea and Celery Salad

My humble father took an Indian cookery course in 1996, belive-it-or-not. I found the document, and looked through the many coffee-coloured, old, crisp pages, dripping with inspiration. After being reminded of a dry cauliflower curry, which I hope to make again, I also found this curry. Along with a lot of concentrated Indian cooking knowledge, I decided to take this odd dish with me.
Muttar paneer is a widely-eaten curry made of spiced peas and a bland, semi-hard cheese called paneer. Like halloumi, it doesn't go gooey, but unlike halloumi it has no flavour, just a vertiginous capacity to absorb it. If you can find it buy it, but it's surprisingly easy to make; I feel very accomplished in life if I make my own cheese.
With all the washing and boiling of rice, and the piles of starch that are eaten but just sit in my stomach as wasted energy, I don't cook it too often. My substitute, this more easterly salad of some of my favourite instant sides, avocado and chickpeas, plus some lovely aniseedy celery and a dressing somewhat reminiscent of a deconstructed hummus, but with lovely sweet cumin seeds. It seems extra work than just putting rice on, but trust me on this. Although, talking of trust, I should mention I haven't passed on a 'tell them I said;' in my entire life. Maybe have rice with this.
1)Boil 4 pints of milk (a perfect use for when you've bought too much and it will go out of date too soon), and then immediately throw in 8 tbsp white wine vinegar, you could use lemon juice, but I found vinegar much more effective. Once the curds separate, don't stir. Pour into a sieve, and very gently stir it to help it drain. When it's fairly dry, dump into a tea towel, squeeze any more liquid out, and press a chopping board on top, then a pan full of water. Leave to sit for a minimum of 15 minutes.
2)Meanwhile, chop two large onions finely, 2 tsp fresh chopped ginger, 4 crushed cloves of garlic and a green chilli, it's worth keeping the seeds in here. When that's all incredibly soft and mushy, add 1 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp paprika and 1 1/2 tsp garam masala. Add 1 tin of chopped tomatoes, plus half of the volume of the swilled out can of water. Let that simmer gently whilst you further prepare the paneer.
3)Heat a large pan of vegetable oil gently, then drop in cubes of the paneer and deep-fry until golden. Drain on kitchen paper.
4)Add 6 ounces frozen peas, and cook until thawed. Add the paneer cubes and cook for a further 2-3 minutes.
5)Coarsley chop two sticks of celery, with their tough strings removed with a vegetable peeler. Also chop an avocado in your hand, by drawing a criss-cross within the skin, then scoop out the cubes.
6)To a drained tin of chickpeas, mix 2 tbsp tahini, the juice of one lemon, a pinch of paprika, about 2 tbsp natural yoghurt and plenty of salt and caraway or cumin (both will give a different effect, though) seeds. The dressing will likely be too thick, so add a few tsp water to thin. Mix in the celery, but keep the avocado undressed on top, bar a little spritz of lemon to stop it browning. Serve this salad with some chopped coriander or mint if you like and the curry.

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