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Saturday, 23 April 2016

Crispy Hoisin Duck with Pancakes

It's a toss up between whether serving duck the French way, with a glossy orange sauce, or this way, everyone's favourite starter in a Chinese Restaurant is a better option. Either way, they both observe that the rich, fatty flavour of duck doesn't need much help, and you shouldn't either when recreating this dish at home.
Hoisin sauce is easy to come by and it's a useful thing to keep in the larder for Asian cooking, and if you intend to cook this often (a good idea given how much Gressingham ducks seem to be on sale recently) you can take a jaunt to an Asian grocery and buy the frozen pancakes. Both are surprisingly very cheap and even if you can't find the pancakes use tortillas.
There is an entirely optional but great step that you can take to ensure your duck has unctuously crisp skin and melting flesh, hijacked from a certain Simon Hopkinson and his Christmas goose. Puncture the skin lightly with a skewer and pour over boiling water. Dry the skin really well and leave the duck out at room temperature so the skin is really parchmenty and dry, then continue with the recipe from step 1. The skin does really need to be devoid of any moisture, so it's useful to do this the night before and leave it uncovered in the fridge or set a gentle electric fan by it for an hour, turning regularly. Sounds bizarre, but not as bizarre as using a bicycle pump to separate the skin from the meat which you will come across sometimes with crispy duck.
1)Set a large duck over a rack over a roasting tin (the rack mostly comes with the roasting tin anyway- if not, then just use one of the oven racks set over the roasting tin). Sprinkle the skin with 2 tsp Chinese five spice powder (legs, back everything) then sprinkle with a little salt and lots of pepper in and out of the cavity. Slow cook for a good five hours at a low 150 degrees oven. The duck will render liquid gold as it cooks- the duck fat that leeches from it is magical and should be saved in a jar to make fabulously crisp roast potatoes and hashes.
2)Take the duck out to rest, whilst you prepare the veg. Traditional is cucumber and spring onion, but cucumber aggravates my stomach massively so I use slices of avocado topped with lime juice and sea salt. Spring onions are okay. Shredded romaine lettuce is also nice.
3)Shred the duck with two forks (or a pair of asbestos hands) and serve with the thawed pancakes steamed briefly in a bamboo steamer, and plenty of hoisin sauce. Shaved ginger works well, as does some sliced plums. Go with whatever your soul sings (if you're lucky enough to have one).

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